If your looking to rebuild some cylinders go here. I like to use 10 inch cylinders in the rear and 8 inch up front. Anything larger than tens in the rear can cause problems with trailing arms and drive shaft. 8 inch cylinders are good up front because you get a better safety margin to avoiding deadheading the pumps. The 8 inch cylinder will give you the same amount of play in height as 6 inch , because of vehicle geometry. Using a larger case than the cylinder stroke can help the system move quicker. For example a 10 inch case with a 8 inch shaft. See the section below. Make sure cylinder collars are tight and locktited. Also see below!!!
Here is a old trick used by some hoppers to gain a secret advantage. We took a standard 10 inch cylinder and had the shaft shortened to 8 inches. When put back together this will leave about two inches of oil already in the cylinder for better response.
We are about to put this cylinder shaft back in the cylinder case. This shaft was machined down two inches and threaded by a shop for us.
Here you can see the brass bushing and the retaining collar.
The piston head of the shaft is oiled and put carefully back in the case making sure not to damage or pinch any seals.
The brass bushing is put back on the shaft.
The cylinder collar is tightened back on and that’s it.
Above: Here is the finished product of this simple modification. From the outside they look like just 10 inch cylinders. Be careful not to push in the shaft all the way until the cup is back on the shaft.
From the inside you can see that there is a about two inches from the top of the piston top and the top of the case. This will allow you to fill your cylinders quicker for better response.
Tighten Your Cylinder Collars
Here you can see the collar has let go and the piston head of the cylinder shaft is exposed!
Here you can see the cylinder case has damaged the hood of the car when it let go.